Furry foes

When camping in Africa we are all exposed to nature and learn how to manage. While this allow us to come in rather close contact with interesting animals, some can be a problem or even a menace. I am not referring here to poisonous/venemous? snakes or large mammals but to the primates, particularly the baboons!

Admittedly, they are often entertaining and their babies can look very sweet. The truth is that baboons can be ruthless killers and they do not hesitate to snatch a vulnerable prey. I have seen them killing doves at waterholes and newly born gazelles, despite their mother´s efforts to defend them!

They are intelligent animals, always watching your movements in the campsite, ready to pounce on you and snatch that only pack of butter that was meant to last for the whole stay!

Do not be delluded thinking that baboons will keep away from you while you are in the camp. I recall that many years ago, while visiting Mzima springs in Tsavo West National Park, Mabel found herself surrounded by vervet monkeys showing such aggressive behaviour that required the two of us to tackle them to make them leave us alone!

We suffered an unforgettable and rather violent encounter with a rather large male baboon that has left an indeleble mark on us, particularly on a newcomer to Africa that was one of our group (see: https://bushsnob.com/2019/10/06/a-visit/). Whenever she sees or hears a baboon, regardless where it is, she collect a handful of stones!

We have also witnessed major disasters such as baboons demolishing a tent in Serondela camp in Chobe NP because the people went for a game drive and left their food inside!

In more recent history, monkeys and baboons have been ruthless with us while camping in Mana Pools to such a point that we always leave someone in camp when we go game viewing.

However, nothing matches the experience of some fellow campers whose tent was broken into and emptied of the food that they was to last them… It was a strong tent made of thick canvass but it still was not apt to resist a troop of baboons. They were lucky that we had some spare food that we gave them that helped them to survive the planned stay.

Despite my dislike of baboons, what we saw with my late brother an early morning at Mana mouth in Mana Pools National Park has left an indelible memory linked to him and baboons. On that ocassion we approached a very large acacia tree by the Zambezi river that was completely packed with baboons, probably over a hundred of them of all sizes. It was an amazing sight but, before we could get ready for what could have been a great picture of a “baboon tree”, the hairy mass stirred.

What followed was one of the incredible sights that the bush has for its lovers. The whole troop decided to come down the tree simultaneously. The tree rapidly emptied itself from its load as they descended down all branches converging at the main tree trunk into a giant furry snake that would crumble the moment it reached the floor, its pieces running in all directions, panic stricken!

The sight did not last more than 10-15 seconds but it made as forget out campers’ dislike for baboons and we now look at them more kindly than before. Al least until they come for our camp yet again!

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