Bush stories and anecdotes

The heart of the blog, where I present observations, accounts, funny stories, etc.

Tarántula Terminator

Picture by Mariana Terra.

Picture by Mariana Terra.

During our first walk around the Rincón del Socorro ranch we came across a large wasp dragging a spider. Although we have seen this several times both in Africa and Latin America, it was the first time we witnessed a confrontation of such large and colourful adversaries. The wasp was about six centimetres long and the spider even larger!

Picture by Mariana Terra.

Picture by Mariana Terra.

Before our arrival a Tarántula Hawk (a wasp of the Pompillidae family) caught a large Tarántula (Grammostola sp.) and was dragging it through the grass. The wasp stings the spider in order to paralyze it and later it lays an egg on it so that its offspring can feed on the inert -but living- arachnid. Apparently (see link below) the young wasp eats the spider’s non-vital organs first so that the paralyzed spider remain as a supply of fresh food for some time.

The Spider compared with a -muddy- foot...

The Spider compared with a -muddy- foot…

The female wasp (males do not hunt) was determined to keep hold of her prey, and clearly looking for her burrow or a place to bury the spider.

Life is, albeit rarely, also dangerous for the wasp as she deals with dangerous prey as sometimes she fails and becomes the prey instead of the predator. Even if she wins the battle, she is still very vulnerable while she drags her prey across rough terrain; she is earth bound and reluctant to abandon it.

If you are interested in more details I recommend you to consult the following link:

http://www.bbc.com/earth/story/20150109-the-wasp-that-scares-tarantulas

One Tusker…

twisted tusker tusk tip small

While at Mana Pools National Park we met this elephant. At first we dismissed it as a “one tusker” but when we looked at it from a different angle it immediately became clear that we were wrong!

While its right tusk looked healthy and nicely curved, its left tusk had grown in the wrong direction and it was pointing down and towards the back.

twisted tusker small 1

I have seen pictures and references in the literature of elephants with weird tusk arrangements so this find is not really an unusual one. It is much more rare to find an elephant with three tusks and I recall a hunter (probably Ionides) who tracked a famous three-tusker. More recently, an animal with this same rare characteristic was spotted in Nxai Pan National Park in Botswana by Stuart Arnold (http://www.exploreafrica.net/whats-happening-now/3-tusk-elephant-nxai-pan/).

Twisted tusker small

In our case, what made this animal interesting was its habit of placing its trunk behind its left tusk, giving it a weird look.

Twisted tusker trunk

Based on its size and condition, the bent tusk does not appear to have had a negative impact on its life and it is unlikely that it will affect it in the future. We will keep an eye open for it in our upcoming visits to the Park.

African Videos – Elephants 1

As today is a holiday and I imagine you can do with some entertainment, I decided to post a few videos about elephants. Please put up with my usual lack of photographic/filming skills and enjoy the moment!

 

1. What I call the Babalala Tusker for lack of another more appropriate name until it is -eventually- named by the Kruger National Park authorities.

 

2. I believe this to be a magnificent view of elephants at a waterhole in Hwange National Park in October 2013. This sight really hooked me on the pachyderms (with help from family and friends…)

 

3. Another view of elephants drinking at a smaller waterhole.

 

4. Elephants are the only animals that show “emotions” when approaching the water! Just watch…

 

 

 

Stranded in the Zambezi

Zambezi river

This story was told to me by a fishing guide at Kanyemba, a great place for tiger fishing on the Zambezi, Zimbabwe. I was assured that it is a true story.

A number of tour operators organize canoe (kayak-type) trips downriver in the Zambezi. They usually start in the Chirundu area and end at Mana Pools National Park or thereabouts.

A group of European tourists were doing one of these trips. This was a party of six, including a very experienced guide and hunter that knew the area very well and who was a frequent visitor to these waters.

The party was progressing slowly between the river banks when suddenly a hippo attacked them and sunk their boats. Luckily, not only did the culprit depart soon after the damage was done, but the tourists capsized in shallow water (chest level) and managed to hold onto some oars!

Fearing a return of the attacker and fearing attracting crocodiles’ attention, the guide instructed the tourists to stay put in the shallow bank while he swam to the Zambian shore to look for help. He knew the farmers on the other side. He calculated that he would return a couple of hours later with a boat to pick them up. Before he left, he strongly recommended that they stay put and use the oars as their defense in case of hippos or crocodiles.

He started wading the river and then swimming. He was very fit and made progress rapidly towards the other shore. However, the river is wide at parts and, about half way, the horrified tourists saw a crocodile swimming towards him and, although they shouted and waved arms and oars, the guide did not hear them and the inevitable happened. The crocodile attacked and took the guide by his right arm. A struggle ensued and, luckily, the guide broke free and managed to reach the shore, injured and having lost a considerable amount of blood.

The guide, now severely weakened by blood loss, was clearly in trouble! Although aware of his lucky escape from the crocodile, he realized that he would not be able to move very far from the river’s shore and there were many dangerous animals in that area, particularly the feared buffalo but also lion and hyena. Before his strength waned he found the best possible place and sat down leaning against a tree trunk. He was no longer bleeding but he could not move, as he was very weak.

Before he fainted he realized that he was in trouble. After a while -he did not know how long- he came to and heard an animal approaching. As it was almost night-time, he did not see at first what it was but there was little he could do anyway so he prepared for the worst. He strained his eyes and managed to see a large shape approaching and he knew that it was a buffalo and that he was a goner. The buffalo was coming straight towards him so he closed his eyes and waited. Nothing happened! Nevertheless, he could smell and hear the buffalo breathing very close. He slowly opened his eyes and his heart missed a beat. The buffalo was lying a couple of metres away from him!

He passed out again and he woke up with the first light. The buffalo was gone and, for a moment he thought that it was a dream. However, the flattened grass confirmed that the animal had been there! His arm was not bleeding and he had regained some strength so he decided to walk to the nearest farm to seek help. He did not make it but was luckily found, unconscious again, by one of the farm workers on patrol.

Our battered guide was immediately taken to the farm. He was in a terrible state so the farmer decided to evacuate him to South Africa for emergency medical attention. As there was no time to waste, an ambulance plane was called and within a couple of hours the farmer and the injured guide were on their way to Johannesburg.

As is the case during a medical evacuation, the doctors started treating the guide as soon as he was on board and in about an hour he regained consciousness. The caretakers realized that he was trying to speak and, attributing this to the fever caused by the infected wounds, told him to relax as he was out of danger and in good hands now. The guide, however, became increasingly agitated until, gathering all his strength managed to say “tourists, Zambezi” “You are not in the Zambezi anymore, you are on a plane to South Africa” came the reply from the doctor.

Eventually he got the message across and managed to describe what had taken place and told them that his clients were still in the Zambezi! Panic ensued and frantic messages from the pilot to Lusaka airport were recieved before the plane’s landing in South Africa.

Eventually the news was relayed back to the farm and a search and rescue party was dispatched with the result that a few hours later the survivors were found, still in the same spot, with the water up to their waists, hanging on to their oars, unharmed and overjoyed to have been found.

The guide recovered from his injuries and continued working for a few more years. Sadly, he died while trying to finish-off a wounded buffalo.

Spot the Beast 5

 

Spot the beast 5

The Bushsnob is back in action, at least for two posts! I am not sure when I will be able to post again so I will do the “Beast 5 Revealed” below.

At the moment we are 1600 km north from the river Plate, at our small farm in Salta, Argentina from where I will post a few interesting entries (I hope) for you to enjoy.

Behind our backs

While we were engrossed watching the Crocodiles ambushing the Impalas at Masuma dam, lots of things were taking place around us. On the first day there, a snake was coming down exactly where my wife was sitting at the viewing platform! To say that she does not like snakes is an understatement, so she moved out of the snake’s possible path rather fast! I did not make things better when I identified it as a possible Boomslang!

A couple of days later, while focusing on the waters-edge going ons, one of the Picnic Attendants called our attention to another snake act! This time they were two snakes, similar to the one seen before. Their behaviour indicated that they were mating. Basically the process involved the two snakes sliding together throughout the viewing platform as one, the female? moving away while the other one, the male? tried to come into contact with her. Once that was achieved they started to shiver and twist around each other.

First view of snakes outside 2

The snakes moving in.

snakes inside

TOM DSC_1023.1

Picture by Tom Milliken.

The process took about 30 minutes during which they were in command of the viewing platform as the human occupants were always at the opposite end, keeping an eye on their movements. The latter were rather fast and, as we suspected them to be the dangerous Boomslangs, there was no time for jokes while giving them a wide berth. At one stage they were mating at the door and several people were seen to leave the platform through any possible exit in order to get things from their cars or go to the toilet.

close up inside

Eventually their courtship took them outside and they were last seen twisting in a nearby tree.

TOM DSC_1039

They finally moved outside. Picture by Tom Milliken.

If such a thing as “relief post factum” exists, we need not have worried as, with the benefit of time and a good snake guide, they were identified as a pair of the slender Spotted Bush Snakes (Philothamnus semivariegatus). They are a rather common and harmless snake endemic to Africa that feed on lizards, tree frogs and geckos.

In light of this excitement, I promised myself to add an extra kg to our already heavy camping gear and include the snake book in the future!

Yet they were Royal*

They were forced to jump through rings of fire, to walk across thin wood bridges, to sit on two paws and to run in small circles. They didn’t want to, but they did. They had to survive. So they abode to the rules of their masters and ran in circles, sat on two paws and jumped when they were ordered to.

They lived in perfect misery. Their food was thrown on the floor, where it mixed with their faeces. Drinking water was very often filthy and their manes were knotted, for they were so dirty. A miserable life.

Yet, they were royals, enslaved yes, but still kings and queens.

They were lions kept in captivity in seven or eight circuses working in rural Bolivia, mainly in the tropical lowlands, where the climate is warm and humid. Some of them had been captured in Africa when they were still young, then sold to many owners and eventually found themselves in South America. Others were born in circuses and small zoos but were still of royal blood.

The circuses presented the lions in small towns where laws and regulations could be ignored easily.

In 2009 Animal Defenders International (ADI) surveyed the use of animals in the entertainment industry in Bolivia and found a surprisingly large number of circuses owning a great variety of animals. That finding led the Government to pass a law banning the use of live animals for human entertainment. In 2010, ADI decided to rescue the animals held by circuses. A “covert” operation was then developed with the ultimate aim of rescuing the animals. ADI staff, disguised as clowns, jugglers and cleaning workers infiltrated the circuses to glean the exact number and species of animals kept, and to get photographic evidence.

The ADI, supported by the Government body in charge of biodiversity conservation -the Dirección General de Biodiversidad (DGB)- seized animals from more than seven circuses; the lions were confined in cages. All were in bad condition; they were undernourished, weak, covered by wounds and scars and suffered various diseases. One of them even had deformed bones as a result of chronic malnutrition. Another one had become so aggressive that he lunged against the bars of the cage every time a person approached it. A female that gave birth to three cubs had barely enough milk for all. One was almost unable to endure the trip to Santa Cruz due to its condition. While some owners decided to accept the laws and cede the animals, others refused and resisted. One threatened to stab the ADI and DGB staff.

Following the request of the ADI and DGB, some local workshops built new cages to transport the animals to a temporary refuge. The Bolivian blacksmiths did well on this novel work.

Circus by circus the ADI and DGB seized the lions, sometimes confiscating the cages, others compensating the owners. The lions were transferred to the newly built cages. For some towns, the seizing operations were the most exciting event had happened in many years. In some towns, children gathered for an impromptu farewell. All in all, the ADI and DGB seized 25 lions.

A “lion den” to hold them was organized in Santa Cruz to keep them until their condition improved. The lions travelled more than 800 miles by land, on difficult and dangerous roads to get to their destination. Transportation was carried out with the utmost care, as having an accident with a cargo of lions on winding roads that brush the edge of deep cliffs would have been unwelcome. When the lions came under ADI’s protection, they were dewormed, and given proper food, vitamins, clean water and more space. They were also given good bedding and places to rest but, most important of all, the shows were over. No more jumping, crawling, running and sitting on two paws at their tamer’s orders.

While this was happening, a large, permanent refuge was being built in Denver, Colorado. The lions would go from summer in the tropics to winter in the North. Special lodges had to be built to help the animals grow accustomed to the hostile winter.

Finally, the lions were transferred to cages appropriate for plane travel. The ADI team ensured that while every animal was in one cage, families could be together, animals could see each other and mothers would travel with their cubs. An old DC-130, a veteran from the Viet-Nam war, took off from Santa Cruz and arrived twelve hours later in Denver. There, the ADI team and a number of supporters–including the renowned TV conductor Bob Barker and the CSI star, Jorja Fox, were awaiting their arrival.

The lions were set free in what is now their permanent refuge. They have formed families. Most have recovered from their injuries and illnesses. Far, very far from Africa, they are finally free from the circus and the tamers. They cannot be reintegrated into the wilderness, for they lack the hunting and surviving abilities a lion must have, nor they will be allowed to reproduce, since the population would increase, posing a further problem. However, they will live a much better life.

I wonder if those lions, when the sunset comes, remember their African savannas. Maybe they do, and in their dreams they see themselves hunting, fighting, killing and dying as the royals they once were. After all, they still have blue blood.

Gonzalo Flores (don.gonchi@gmail.com)

 

* This story was told in a film titled “Lion Ark”, directed by Tim Phillips. It was awarded seven awards, including the Mississippi Film Festival’s Best Documentary and the San Diego Film Festival’s Audience Choice Best Documentary. 

Skin Disease

End of October is the height of the dry season in Mana Pools. The place really looks like a brown dust bowl the exception being those trees that, anticipating the arrival of the new rains, flower now to be ready to drop their seeds with the onset of the rains presenting the landscape with some colourful blotches.

Very few Apple Ring Acacia still had pods and the experienced elephants that knew the reward of a few strong shakes applied to the trunk, were using this technique and relishing the fruit of the “podfall” they produced!

The scarcity of the Acacia pods is now compensated by the abundance of sausages of the Sausage Trees, now quite grown although probably not so palatable. As a consequence of the general absence of food on the plains, the animals in general and the elephants in particular were seen mainly on the margins of the Zambezi River, feeding on aquatic plants. The Zambezi banks were dotted with elephants and many were feeding and bathing below the banks of the campsite.

Despite this, although harder to find, some elephants were still inland. We met one of them, a rather large animal with good ivory for Mana Pools. It happened to be using the same road as us and coming in the opposite direction! As we all know, elephants have the right of way! It was a rather large and beautiful bull with good tuskers for Mana Pools.

Mana tusker small

The Tusker coming…

It had a relaxed but sure gait, I imagine that this is the attitude of someone with no threats. He clearly saw us before we did and did not define us as a worthwhile threat so it continued walking as if we did not exist.

We parked politely in the bush by the side of the narrow road, stopped the engine and watched this magnificent animal. It passed very close to us and in so doing we could appreciate its size as well as take some photographs of it.

While on our side we observed, with some preoccupation, that it had a rather large area of its skin at the back and flanks covered with skin blotches that look like some kind of fungal infection. Elephant skin is thick and tough, reaching almost 3 cm on it s back. Additionally, the elephant uses mud and dust to further protect its skin, as it is a very sensitive organ.

Mana tusker skin disease

The suspected skin problem is seen as paler areas on its ears, back, sides and upper hind leg.

Although we had observed this condition before, this is the most extended that we had seen so far. Hopefully the mud baths will help this animal to control it.

Dagga Boy*

buff and cigar 1

We came across this lone male Buffalo (Syncerus caffer) who seemed to be about to light a large cigar!

buff and sausage

It was in fact working its way through a sausage, the fruit of the aptly named Sausage tree (Kigelia africana). This tree provides game with food during the dry season at Mana Pools National Park.

sausages

The sausages.

buff and sausage 2

Almost done!

Our first encounter with buffalo while camping at Nyamepi Camp site was worrying: four large male buffalo were between the toilets and us! We held our needs in check for as long as we could but the buffalo would not budge so we braved the trip! We need not have worried as they ignored us completely as we walked past. They were totally focused on devouring the flowers of the Sausage tree that they also relish.

 

* I tried to be clever here! A “Dagga Boy” is an old Buffalo bull that have been kicked out of the herd and spends all day wallowing in mud. “Dagga” means mud in Zulu. In addition, “Dagga” also means Cannabis, hence the play with words.

Not rain but hail!

Elephants at w:hole prior to rain

Elephants drinking before the storm.

It was mid afternoon on the second day and we decided to visit a nearby pan where we had seen elephants with rather large tusks on our way into Shumba camp in the hopes of finding them again. It was very windy and the sky looked grey but we attributed it to the bush fires that prevail at this time of the year. “Too early to rain” I said but my wife was not convinced. “To me that looks like rain”, she said as we made our way to the pan.

There were a few elephants drinking but no large tuskers to be seen . While watching the animals, the wind picked up and we heard thunder. Clearly, the grey sky was indeed a storm in the making and I was wrong again! Soon, heavy raindrops started to fall. The elephants’ response was to rapidly move off from the water into the nearby bush, with the exception of a couple of bulls that had just arrived for whom the need for water overrode the need to seek shelter from the storm.

low visibility

It was a storm!

Raindrops turned into hail that, after two to three minutes, changed again into water in the form of a heavy downpour which was also short-lived. The two elephants put up with the inclement weather and continued to drink while the chickpea-sized stones bounced off their backs! What a relief from the heat and dust! In addition it released a wonderful wet earth smell that prompted us to open our car windows and enjoy the wetness of what, a few minutes earlier, was scorched earth!

elephants start to hail

elephants under hail

The two bulls drank despite the inclement weather!

Once their thirst was quenched, the elephants moved off. We tailed them as they took to the road that headed for our camp. One went into the bush and started to feed, while the other continued to walk ahead of us, stopping every few metres to drink from the rain puddles that had formed on the tarmac. It was funny to see how it would effortlessly suck them dry! Clearly it could not resist fresh rainwater!

drinking from the puddles

Enjoying fresh rainwater.

We were still behind the elephant when we saw one rock on the road and farther on another one. The elephant carefully avoided them. The rocks turned out to be Leopard Tortoises coming out of their heatproof refuges to enjoy a dunk and a drink, probably their first since early last year! Watching these animals enjoy the rainwater served as a reminder that, in hostile environments, opportunism is the name of the game!

tortoise at puddle

Smiley…

I thought I saw them smiling but it may have been just the shape of their mouths… Well, at least we smiled and hope that the rains will be good this year!